From chop houses to MICHELIN stars: the London table, the back story

About From chop houses to MICHELIN stars: the London table, the back story

By the ULTIMATE London Editorial Team

Editor-in-Chief: Jai Michael

London has always eaten from the world. Its markets and docks brought spices, tea and sugar for centuries; today its restaurants cover almost every cuisine on earth, from St. JOHN’s nose-to-tail British cooking to MICHELIN-starred Indian dining.

Taverns and chop houses

For centuries Londoners ate in taverns, chop houses and oyster bars. A few old names survive: Rules, in Covent Garden since 1798, and Wiltons, which began as a shellfish stall in 1742, still serve oysters, game and puddings in the old style.

Afternoon tea

Afternoon tea became fashionable in the 1840s and remains a London ritual. The grand hotels, from The Ritz to Claridge’s, serve it at set times with sandwiches, scones, clotted cream and cakes; book ahead and dress smartly.

In London, the best table is often the one you queued for.

From the world

Waves of arrivals reshaped London’s food: Italian cafés in Soho, Chinese restaurants around Gerrard Street, and Indian restaurants that made curry part of British life. Today Gymkhana and Trishna show how far that cooking has come.

Modern British

In the 1990s a new generation of cooks rediscovered British produce. St. JOHN, opened near Smithfield in 1994, made a virtue of simple, seasonal cooking and of using the whole animal, and its influence is felt across the city.

Queues and bookings

Many of the most popular casual restaurants, such as Dishoom, Kiln and Padella, keep most tables for walk-ins, so arriving early is the trick. For fine dining and the famous names, book weeks ahead.

Our advice: mix the great and the casual. Book one special dinner well in advance, try afternoon tea once, and spend the rest of your meals queuing happily for the places Londoners love.

Opening hours, prices and seasonal openings change, so please check with From chop houses to MICHELIN stars: the London table, the back story before you go.